Saturday, August 13, 2011

Day 83

I'm sitting in my big fluorescently-lit room on my sheetless bed staring at the dozen or so empty hangers in my closet and the white barren walls. My giant suitcase looms in the corner.

I thought I would have some kind of emotions to process but I don't. I'm just...leaving. I'm slightly disappointed to be leaving the world of "other," for we all know that all that is "other" is innately more exciting than "home." I'm not looking forward to returning to subbing or student teaching. But other than that, I'm just...here. Living day by day. Moment by moment. Staring at my computer screen to pass time, listening to K-Pop, and not thinking about what tomorrow will bring.

This was not a finite experience, the way France felt. This feels like only the first chapter of a long relationship with Japan. It's a great comfort to know I'll be back. I don't mind that I haven't visited such-and-such city or bought any kind of special souvenir for myself; there'll be time for that later.

It's strange to think you don't know what exactly will stir your memory until you leave the situation. What songs will remind me of here? What smells, feelings? I'll have to wait until it's gone to find out. For now I'm still here.

Friday, August 12, 2011

Days 80-82: This is it.

There's people staying here now. They're counselors who are using our apartment as their "homestay." We're leaving with them when we go back. I have one more full day in Nagasaki, tomorrow (the 13th.) After that I'll be leaving to spend a night in Fukuoka and then going home.

I've believed it for so long intellectually, and been excited for it, but when you're faced with the reality of it, it feels weird. Like it won't actually happen. Like I'll wake up the next day and still be here like always. That's how it felt when I left CA, too.

I'm almost finished with all my omiyage (souvenir) shopping. I hope it's useful and appreciated. I stressed myself out over it so much and ended up procrastinating until the last hour because I was so stressed about what to buy. Gift-giving is so stressful for me. I just don't want my money to be a waste if the person doesn't like their gift. :/

I was gonna get myself a backpack because they are SO cute here and nothing like what you see in the states, but I can't find one that's perfect. But I want to get myself something...I'm just not sure what.

As I was walking to the shopping arcade today, the sun was shining and the breeze was blowing, not a cloud in the sky. I was walking next to the river, on the cobblestone street, passing stone bridge after stone bridge. The water was greeny-blue, with the sky's reflection mottled by dumbass koi sticking their heads up out of the water. I was listening to the music, and walking to the beat, and life felt so good. Except that moment felt empty, because I didn't have anyone to share it with. That's what I've longed for here, in all my moments of cultural appreciation and awareness and self-growth: someone to share my experiences with. I have you all, but you'll never know my experiences the way you would if you were here like me, so our sharing will be one-sided and not the same.

Time to start packing.


TODAY'S CULTURAL TIDBITS

1. Walking. When Akira visited early this week, she told me how in America, everyone drives everywhere because they are lazy and busy. This is true. She told me how people in her hall in Arroyo Vista would drive to Albertson's when it is a 10-to-15 minute walk, and how once they even drove from their hall to the housing office (literally a 3-minute walk) to drop off their key, because it was quicker. Not having had a car during undergrad, I can't say I did the same, but I can attest to the pure temptation that having a car induces: why walk when you can drive? In Japan, gas prices are higher, city roads are traffickyer, and laze is much lower, from which is born a culture of walking. People just walk everywhere. They might walk everywhere in NYC and Chicago too, for all I know, but it's a stark contrast to Irvine's sururban sprawl. Today, I walked from home to Hamanomachi to Yumesaito to Amu Plaza and back to home, thus encircling nearly all of lower Nagasaki. The total walking time was probably about two hours. My feet hurt and I was sweaty and tired afterward, but hey, if you've got more time than money, it's the only way to go.

2. Things which you frequently find in America which are almost impossible to find in Japan:
*Public bathrooms (not in a store)
*Trash cans on the street (you either throw it away in the store, because you don't eat while walking, or save your trash for when you get home and can sort it properly into burnables and non-burnable recyclables.)
*Drinking fountains (YOU BUY FROM THE VENDING MACHINE OR YOU GET NOTHING!)

Tuesday, August 9, 2011

Days 78-79: Akira's visit

My friend Akira, who lives in Kanagawa Prefecture(near Tokyo), came to visit Nagasaki!! We know each other because she studied abroad at UCI for the whole school year two years ago ('09-'10, although I'm still tempted to say "last year.") She came because yesterday (August 9th) is a very historic day for Nagasaki--the anniversary of the day the atom bomb was dropped. So because of that, and because of the summer season, the town has been more abuzz than usual, and I was glad to show Akira my city.

On Monday we went to a museum I'd never been to before, the Museum of the 26 Martyrs. Back when Christianity was first introduced to Japan via missionaries in the 16th and 17th centuries, it was allowed, but not long after, it become outlawed and punishable by execution. These particular 26 Japanese Christians refused to renounce their faith and were executed in the very spot where the monument and museum now stands. Anyway, I don't know why I hadn't had any previous interest because it was so cool! Tons of artifacts from the 1500-1700s--actual bound books, Christian memorabilia such as prayer necklaces, small statues and Bibles (handwritten and translated into Japanese), a giant parasol/gong, and my two personal favorite items: 1. a giant book of old Gregorian-chant style music (just like the kind I had to translate for my project) and 2. old maps of Japan and Nagasaki, made by Dutch or French settlers, so the names were written according to Dutch/French orthography. For instance, the French map called Nagasaki "Nangasaki" and the Dutch called Yama "Jamma." SO COOL. I LOVE MAPS.

We spent a lot of time at the Peace Park area. On Monday night there was a beautiful candle service--thousands of luminarias made by local elementary schoolers lit the path and spelled out phrases in Japanese. On Tuesday morning was the BIG DEAL--the annual memorial event. At the actual moment of the bombing, 11:02 AM, a moment of silence was held. The Prime Minister, Naoto Kan, was there at the Peace Park, and he made a speech as Akira and I listened (but could not see 'cause we were too far back.) A chorus sang songs (to my delight) and a pack of doves was released. The most moving part of the day was once again visiting the Peace Memorial Hall. They have a room where you can listen to actual recordings survivors made of their testimonies of the bombing. Listening to the survivors' stories never fails to bring tears to my eyes.

We talked in a mix of Japanese and English. I found myself floundering in Japanese. Of course it's expected, since I've only studied for a year and a half, but still, I really want to get to the point where I can have a full conversation and say what I want to say without reverting to English. Still, I guess it took me 5-6 years of French to get to that level. I don't think my French and Japanese levels will ever equalize--French is just too similar to English and I started it from a younger age, so I'll always be better at it. But in some instances, I can express myself better in Japanese, because I have a better sense of their actual meaning of phrases and words. Especially slang. It's hard to explain, but because I've hung out around Japanese youth so much, I feel much more in tune with the culture and how it relates to their language.

Five more full days. I can taste the Mexican food already.



Some of the 26 martyrs.


The one sneaky-snake picture I took inside. God is Love.


Two kitttens sharing a rain puddle.


Chillin' at Seaside Park.


See that? It's a semi (cicada.) THEY ARE LOUD. (See cultural tidbit)


Inside Oura Catholic church.


Some of the luminarias drawn by elementary schoolers.


The crowd at one of the night memorials.


An old man praying using a Buddhist drum and chant.


Me and Akira with our ice creams.



TODAY'S CULTURAL TIDBITS

1. I have acclimated into sweat rag culture. What is a sweat rag you ask? A sweat rag is a small, sometimes wet washcloth that Japanese people like to carry around and pull out to wipe the sweat off of their faces and bodies. They also like to plop it on their heads or the back of their necks to keep cooler. To them it's indispensible, but I didn't see the point until I came here. It's so humid that it does help to have something to wipe off the sweat.

2. Ever since the conclusion of the rainy season, Semis, or cicadas, have been rampant everywhere in Japan. They are very large bugs which like to keep hidden in bushes and trees, thankfully. They are best recognized by their collective noise, a high-pitched shrieking/screaming/screeching not unlike a cricket's chirp, but MUCH louder and with no pauses. Just a solid buzz, like the buzz of a high-voltage fence, but worse. One needs only to walk outside by some trees in order to hear their welcoming scream. I am of the impression that cicadas exist naturally in the more humid Southern and Eastern areas of the United States but we don't have them in California.

Sunday, August 7, 2011

Days 76-77: 長崎夜市

The past two days were Nagasaki's annual Night Market Festival, called Nagasaki Yoichi (長崎夜市)which literally means...Nagasaki night market. :) I went with Carley, Mai, and Mai's friend Meng. It was so fun!! Like the previous festival I attended, all the families come out in full-force, bringing their little kids decked out in yukatas and jinbeis (Japanese traditional clothing) so you can always see their little bow-bedecked behinds running about from stall to stall. I saw three Seido girls: Mayo (2nd grade), Hohoko (2nd grade), and Moana (1st grade.) Moana was like "HI REBEC!!!!!" as she was passing. Cutest thing ever. I'm really gonna miss them. After browsing through the numerous little street shops, the highlight of the evening started: I don't know the actual name, so I'm going to affectionately call it the SHIP-CARRYING CEREMONY. Dozens of local townsmen, all wearing identical starched white tabi shoes, shorts, headbands, and jacket-tops, use their shoulders to carry a giant wooden ship-of-a-stage (grouped all around, the way coffin-bearers carry a coffin.) Inside the ship/stage 4 boys sit, banging drums elaborately and in perfect rhythm. One, two, THREE, (rest.) One, two, THREE, (rest.) On each beat there is a specific move and they execute it perfectly every time. One each beat the ship-bearers yell-sing a rousing chant. Yo-yo-YOOOOOOO-A! Each time, through hundreds of cycles. They walk like this through the streets, ending up at the main stage, where they start doing tricks, walking back and forth with the ship, lifting it and hurtling it mid-air temporarily. Through the time, the young boys never break their drumming rhythm. At either end of the ship run around flag-bearing boys, carrying and twirling around multicolored flags to signify the beginning and end of the procession. This went on for quite a while until, all of a sudden, (and I don't know how they all knew exactly when to cue this) they stopped. And the captive audience burst into applause.

Other than that, I enjoyed buying Japanese-style kakigoori (shaved ice) with green tea flavor and red bean paste inside (SO GOOD!) and taking lots of pictures of the beautiful lanterns that dotted the sides of the river.


A lantern: Nagasaki Yoichi.


The scene by meganebashi (spectacles bridge.) Lots of lanterns, shops, people and revelry.



Me at the scene.



A hula performance! I was enthralled.




A little one gets some dessert.



The performers rambling down the street, ready to go! HOO-YEAH!



My beautiful shaved ice. Mmm. I want to eat it again and again. It's perfect for those hot summer nights. And so much better than America's equivalent: fried twinkies. Fried Oreos. Fried frog legs. Fried fry.



The performers taking a break.



Shoulder-hoisted again and ready to go!



The free tea and sugar-covered-gummy-seaweed they gave us. :) They were so nice. ("They" being the cute little Japanese grandmas working the tea-and-gummy-seaweed-stand.)

Friday, August 5, 2011

Day 75: Two Surprises

As I glared at the downstairs computer screen for the 3rd consecutive hour, I heard shouts from outside, but assumed it was just some high school kids talking loud and ignored it. After about an hour of continuous talking and intermittent music, I finally went out to investigate. I thought it was going to be some store having a grand opening or something. What a surprise! The whole street was decked out head-to-toe with street vendors selling fried everything, shaved ice, mochi and more! Squarish canvas flags hung off them and became illuminated by the dull street light passing through. Flanking the food stands were dozens of street games, from ball tosses to darts to eating contests. I was reminded of the "American Carnival" we orchestrate at each USA Summer Camp, and I thought that for all that we hype it up to be, this small street festival is no different. Elementary schoolers ran around from station to station, pulling at their mothers' yukata, demanding more coins to play the games. If they were lucky, they made away with a tiny orange goldfish in a plastic baggie of water as their winnings. Saruku-chan, the unofficial mascot of Nagasaki, was there as well, wobbling around in his inflated plastic suit and ceaselessly posing for pictures. I snapped a few myself, though I wish I had worked up the courage to take pictures of more of the children dressed in yukatas or jinbei. Most had small round fans sticking out from the bow in the back of their sash. I think it's wonderful that families still find multiple occasions per year to don these traditional garments, and it's not a serious or historical matter but still very much current. We wear regular clothes to work and traditional clothes in celebration. I must've only stayed a half-hour before I made the 10-step-long trek back to my front door. And that was the surprise Shindaiku-machi street matsuri.


After a while I began to get hungry, and after looking up a recipe on the internet, decided to make tortillas. They're surprisingly easy to make, and I had all the ingredients already: flour, milk, salt, baking powder, vegetable oil. I made a sticky mass of dough and was kneading it in my flour-y hands when I heard a shrill baby's shriek from the living room. Caught totally off-guard, I open the door to see Narumi-kun's face staring up at me. Even though it was near ten at night, Atsuko had come to work on one of her projects, bringing with her her whole family: husband Tsubasa, 2-year-old Kaname and 7-month-old Narumi, a.k.a. The Cutest Baby Who Ever Lived. Dad and kids were sitting on the floor watching a movie, while Atsuko worked on the computer. I must have been cooking for half an hour before I noticed! So that was surprise #2. And by the way, the tortillas were GLORIOUS, a little more like pitas than tortillas, but glorious nonetheless.


The streets were decked with red lanterns.


The street vendors sold lots of fried foods.


My favorite, the shaved ice stand.


Workers make wataame, literally cotton candy.



And just a block down, it's as lonely and desolate as ever.


Kids pose for pictures with Saruku-chan.


This is what my house looks like at night.

Thursday, August 4, 2011

Days 70-74: Merp.

(Sorry this entry has no pictures; there's been nothing picture-worthy lately.)

Since I've been back, I haven't been doing much.
But I LIKE IT.

I could be pressuring myself to do the last little bits of Nagasaki sight-seeing I haven't done yet, or rushing myself to buy souvenirs for my friends and family, but I'm not. I've just been doing work on the computer (regarding fall quarter school/work stuff and job applications for next year,) going to the grocery store, cooking and eating, napping, and internet-ing. But after two weeks of being on the road rushing around, it feels good to have a little lazy sloth time.

The exception was yesterday, where we went to Guy's restaurant in Huis Ten Bosch for the WHOLE DAY. And when I say the whole day I mean like 6am--9pm. An 180-person-big field trip of students from Okayama prefecture came to Rock & Roll Brats to eat hot dogs and practice ordering in English, and we were recruited to be order-takers. It was fun really, talking to the kids and pointing to signs: "Would you like a regular brat or a cheese brat? Which drink would you like, iced tea, Coca-Cola, or Hi-C?" A few were eager to order in English, pulling out their best "this one, please" but most were shy and just pointed at what they wanted. I like being at HTB because I get free food, I get social interaction, and I get into a theme park for free, but the two other interns don't like it as much. I don't know if I'll go there again, though, because Guy is hesitant to pay for my train fare up if I'm not going to be helping out that much.

Tonight I tried to make tempura. That was a fail. Of course, I followed the recipe I found exactly, but that recipe made batter which was way too thin and didn't coat the vegetables well at all. Then I used too much oil and had to take some out in order to get it to "crackle" right. Then the stove setting was too high at first, so the first couple rounds were burnt. But it was still good. :)

On Mon and Tues (Aug 8th and 9th) my friend Akira is coming to Nagasaki! She's coming to visit because August 9th is the anniversary date of the atom bombing of the city, so there is a memorial event going on around the Peace Park area. I'm excited to spend time with her and be in Nagasaki on the historic date. And it's something to spice up the days of monotony that we have with barely any work to do.

ALSO:
I had to make the very difficult decision not to take another trip to Kagawa/Tokushima to visit my friend Liz, meaning we won't be meeting up in Japan at all this time. It's such a weird feeling for me. Normally I prioritize money to travel over all else, and value it as more important than almost anything else money can buy. And technically I have the money in my account. But I didn't feel safe spending that money. I want to save that money just in case I don't get new students/classes to sub at home as quickly as I hope. I'm still beside myself that I didn't get to travel to Beppu, Kumamoto, and Kagoshima, as I had planned to, and now I have to add Kagawa and Tokushima to that list. Missed opportunity, experience unknown. But I have to tell myself that I can see them next year when I come back, and even if I didn't, it wouldn't be the end of the world. I don't have to see every nook and cranny the the earth has to offer. If there's a will, there's a way, so if I want to make it back there, I will somehow. Just like the places in France/Italy I was going to visit but didn't: Nice, Cannes, Marseilles, Monaco, and Cinque Terre. I will definitely be back for those someday. And Paris again.

The days here are long, and home is starting to sound real good. I can taste the Mexican food and feel the cool breezes already. :)