Thursday, October 20, 2011

Post-Japan

I've been back in lovely CA for about 2 months now. It may sound silly, but that's at least the amount of time I need to reflect on the experience and let things crystallize.

So what of it? Well, here's a few of many post-Japan thoughts:

-Songs that remind me of Japan: Any Nujabes song instantly reminds me of whizzing by on trains, because that's all I listened to on them. Instrumentals with hip-hop beats, traditional instruments and melodies, watching the foliage zoom by in blurry lines, looking out the window and seeing little country-ass villages or just fields upon fields of rice grass with water reflecting the sky. I'm really glad I got to travel by train from Kyushu to Tokyo and back, because that's a huge part of my experience now. Also: Adele's entire 21 album.

-I got better at cooking in Japan. I retain my skill but now lack motivation to get even better. (I guess I'm "too busy" here.) I even bought some of the exact same things I used to eat there: Sapporo ramen, kyuri (cucumber), grapefruit, curry, asian-style-european-style bread. I guess JP habits die hard.

-Smell is the most powerful memory-inducer. I still have some of the shampoo I used there in my travel bottles, and when I use it, I feel just how I did when I took a shower there.

-Although I tried to consider "getting used to doing stuff alone" as a learning/growing experience while I was there, in reality I was just lonely. I'm not some newfound person who appreciates extended alonetime. I guess what I learned is that I'm a social person, I like/need to share my life and my thoughts with other people, and trying to change that doesn't really work.

-I appreciate my Japanese class and my Japanese club more now. (As if I didn't appreciate them before.) I just see them in a different light now. I feel like I know what people are talking about now. Japan isn't some great big mystery. It's a country, with people, and I feel a connection to that country and that people, no matter what.

-9 months seems like an infinity to wait until I can hopefully hopefully return in July 2012.

Saturday, August 13, 2011

Day 83

I'm sitting in my big fluorescently-lit room on my sheetless bed staring at the dozen or so empty hangers in my closet and the white barren walls. My giant suitcase looms in the corner.

I thought I would have some kind of emotions to process but I don't. I'm just...leaving. I'm slightly disappointed to be leaving the world of "other," for we all know that all that is "other" is innately more exciting than "home." I'm not looking forward to returning to subbing or student teaching. But other than that, I'm just...here. Living day by day. Moment by moment. Staring at my computer screen to pass time, listening to K-Pop, and not thinking about what tomorrow will bring.

This was not a finite experience, the way France felt. This feels like only the first chapter of a long relationship with Japan. It's a great comfort to know I'll be back. I don't mind that I haven't visited such-and-such city or bought any kind of special souvenir for myself; there'll be time for that later.

It's strange to think you don't know what exactly will stir your memory until you leave the situation. What songs will remind me of here? What smells, feelings? I'll have to wait until it's gone to find out. For now I'm still here.

Friday, August 12, 2011

Days 80-82: This is it.

There's people staying here now. They're counselors who are using our apartment as their "homestay." We're leaving with them when we go back. I have one more full day in Nagasaki, tomorrow (the 13th.) After that I'll be leaving to spend a night in Fukuoka and then going home.

I've believed it for so long intellectually, and been excited for it, but when you're faced with the reality of it, it feels weird. Like it won't actually happen. Like I'll wake up the next day and still be here like always. That's how it felt when I left CA, too.

I'm almost finished with all my omiyage (souvenir) shopping. I hope it's useful and appreciated. I stressed myself out over it so much and ended up procrastinating until the last hour because I was so stressed about what to buy. Gift-giving is so stressful for me. I just don't want my money to be a waste if the person doesn't like their gift. :/

I was gonna get myself a backpack because they are SO cute here and nothing like what you see in the states, but I can't find one that's perfect. But I want to get myself something...I'm just not sure what.

As I was walking to the shopping arcade today, the sun was shining and the breeze was blowing, not a cloud in the sky. I was walking next to the river, on the cobblestone street, passing stone bridge after stone bridge. The water was greeny-blue, with the sky's reflection mottled by dumbass koi sticking their heads up out of the water. I was listening to the music, and walking to the beat, and life felt so good. Except that moment felt empty, because I didn't have anyone to share it with. That's what I've longed for here, in all my moments of cultural appreciation and awareness and self-growth: someone to share my experiences with. I have you all, but you'll never know my experiences the way you would if you were here like me, so our sharing will be one-sided and not the same.

Time to start packing.


TODAY'S CULTURAL TIDBITS

1. Walking. When Akira visited early this week, she told me how in America, everyone drives everywhere because they are lazy and busy. This is true. She told me how people in her hall in Arroyo Vista would drive to Albertson's when it is a 10-to-15 minute walk, and how once they even drove from their hall to the housing office (literally a 3-minute walk) to drop off their key, because it was quicker. Not having had a car during undergrad, I can't say I did the same, but I can attest to the pure temptation that having a car induces: why walk when you can drive? In Japan, gas prices are higher, city roads are traffickyer, and laze is much lower, from which is born a culture of walking. People just walk everywhere. They might walk everywhere in NYC and Chicago too, for all I know, but it's a stark contrast to Irvine's sururban sprawl. Today, I walked from home to Hamanomachi to Yumesaito to Amu Plaza and back to home, thus encircling nearly all of lower Nagasaki. The total walking time was probably about two hours. My feet hurt and I was sweaty and tired afterward, but hey, if you've got more time than money, it's the only way to go.

2. Things which you frequently find in America which are almost impossible to find in Japan:
*Public bathrooms (not in a store)
*Trash cans on the street (you either throw it away in the store, because you don't eat while walking, or save your trash for when you get home and can sort it properly into burnables and non-burnable recyclables.)
*Drinking fountains (YOU BUY FROM THE VENDING MACHINE OR YOU GET NOTHING!)

Tuesday, August 9, 2011

Days 78-79: Akira's visit

My friend Akira, who lives in Kanagawa Prefecture(near Tokyo), came to visit Nagasaki!! We know each other because she studied abroad at UCI for the whole school year two years ago ('09-'10, although I'm still tempted to say "last year.") She came because yesterday (August 9th) is a very historic day for Nagasaki--the anniversary of the day the atom bomb was dropped. So because of that, and because of the summer season, the town has been more abuzz than usual, and I was glad to show Akira my city.

On Monday we went to a museum I'd never been to before, the Museum of the 26 Martyrs. Back when Christianity was first introduced to Japan via missionaries in the 16th and 17th centuries, it was allowed, but not long after, it become outlawed and punishable by execution. These particular 26 Japanese Christians refused to renounce their faith and were executed in the very spot where the monument and museum now stands. Anyway, I don't know why I hadn't had any previous interest because it was so cool! Tons of artifacts from the 1500-1700s--actual bound books, Christian memorabilia such as prayer necklaces, small statues and Bibles (handwritten and translated into Japanese), a giant parasol/gong, and my two personal favorite items: 1. a giant book of old Gregorian-chant style music (just like the kind I had to translate for my project) and 2. old maps of Japan and Nagasaki, made by Dutch or French settlers, so the names were written according to Dutch/French orthography. For instance, the French map called Nagasaki "Nangasaki" and the Dutch called Yama "Jamma." SO COOL. I LOVE MAPS.

We spent a lot of time at the Peace Park area. On Monday night there was a beautiful candle service--thousands of luminarias made by local elementary schoolers lit the path and spelled out phrases in Japanese. On Tuesday morning was the BIG DEAL--the annual memorial event. At the actual moment of the bombing, 11:02 AM, a moment of silence was held. The Prime Minister, Naoto Kan, was there at the Peace Park, and he made a speech as Akira and I listened (but could not see 'cause we were too far back.) A chorus sang songs (to my delight) and a pack of doves was released. The most moving part of the day was once again visiting the Peace Memorial Hall. They have a room where you can listen to actual recordings survivors made of their testimonies of the bombing. Listening to the survivors' stories never fails to bring tears to my eyes.

We talked in a mix of Japanese and English. I found myself floundering in Japanese. Of course it's expected, since I've only studied for a year and a half, but still, I really want to get to the point where I can have a full conversation and say what I want to say without reverting to English. Still, I guess it took me 5-6 years of French to get to that level. I don't think my French and Japanese levels will ever equalize--French is just too similar to English and I started it from a younger age, so I'll always be better at it. But in some instances, I can express myself better in Japanese, because I have a better sense of their actual meaning of phrases and words. Especially slang. It's hard to explain, but because I've hung out around Japanese youth so much, I feel much more in tune with the culture and how it relates to their language.

Five more full days. I can taste the Mexican food already.



Some of the 26 martyrs.


The one sneaky-snake picture I took inside. God is Love.


Two kitttens sharing a rain puddle.


Chillin' at Seaside Park.


See that? It's a semi (cicada.) THEY ARE LOUD. (See cultural tidbit)


Inside Oura Catholic church.


Some of the luminarias drawn by elementary schoolers.


The crowd at one of the night memorials.


An old man praying using a Buddhist drum and chant.


Me and Akira with our ice creams.



TODAY'S CULTURAL TIDBITS

1. I have acclimated into sweat rag culture. What is a sweat rag you ask? A sweat rag is a small, sometimes wet washcloth that Japanese people like to carry around and pull out to wipe the sweat off of their faces and bodies. They also like to plop it on their heads or the back of their necks to keep cooler. To them it's indispensible, but I didn't see the point until I came here. It's so humid that it does help to have something to wipe off the sweat.

2. Ever since the conclusion of the rainy season, Semis, or cicadas, have been rampant everywhere in Japan. They are very large bugs which like to keep hidden in bushes and trees, thankfully. They are best recognized by their collective noise, a high-pitched shrieking/screaming/screeching not unlike a cricket's chirp, but MUCH louder and with no pauses. Just a solid buzz, like the buzz of a high-voltage fence, but worse. One needs only to walk outside by some trees in order to hear their welcoming scream. I am of the impression that cicadas exist naturally in the more humid Southern and Eastern areas of the United States but we don't have them in California.

Sunday, August 7, 2011

Days 76-77: 長崎夜市

The past two days were Nagasaki's annual Night Market Festival, called Nagasaki Yoichi (長崎夜市)which literally means...Nagasaki night market. :) I went with Carley, Mai, and Mai's friend Meng. It was so fun!! Like the previous festival I attended, all the families come out in full-force, bringing their little kids decked out in yukatas and jinbeis (Japanese traditional clothing) so you can always see their little bow-bedecked behinds running about from stall to stall. I saw three Seido girls: Mayo (2nd grade), Hohoko (2nd grade), and Moana (1st grade.) Moana was like "HI REBEC!!!!!" as she was passing. Cutest thing ever. I'm really gonna miss them. After browsing through the numerous little street shops, the highlight of the evening started: I don't know the actual name, so I'm going to affectionately call it the SHIP-CARRYING CEREMONY. Dozens of local townsmen, all wearing identical starched white tabi shoes, shorts, headbands, and jacket-tops, use their shoulders to carry a giant wooden ship-of-a-stage (grouped all around, the way coffin-bearers carry a coffin.) Inside the ship/stage 4 boys sit, banging drums elaborately and in perfect rhythm. One, two, THREE, (rest.) One, two, THREE, (rest.) On each beat there is a specific move and they execute it perfectly every time. One each beat the ship-bearers yell-sing a rousing chant. Yo-yo-YOOOOOOO-A! Each time, through hundreds of cycles. They walk like this through the streets, ending up at the main stage, where they start doing tricks, walking back and forth with the ship, lifting it and hurtling it mid-air temporarily. Through the time, the young boys never break their drumming rhythm. At either end of the ship run around flag-bearing boys, carrying and twirling around multicolored flags to signify the beginning and end of the procession. This went on for quite a while until, all of a sudden, (and I don't know how they all knew exactly when to cue this) they stopped. And the captive audience burst into applause.

Other than that, I enjoyed buying Japanese-style kakigoori (shaved ice) with green tea flavor and red bean paste inside (SO GOOD!) and taking lots of pictures of the beautiful lanterns that dotted the sides of the river.


A lantern: Nagasaki Yoichi.


The scene by meganebashi (spectacles bridge.) Lots of lanterns, shops, people and revelry.



Me at the scene.



A hula performance! I was enthralled.




A little one gets some dessert.



The performers rambling down the street, ready to go! HOO-YEAH!



My beautiful shaved ice. Mmm. I want to eat it again and again. It's perfect for those hot summer nights. And so much better than America's equivalent: fried twinkies. Fried Oreos. Fried frog legs. Fried fry.



The performers taking a break.



Shoulder-hoisted again and ready to go!



The free tea and sugar-covered-gummy-seaweed they gave us. :) They were so nice. ("They" being the cute little Japanese grandmas working the tea-and-gummy-seaweed-stand.)

Friday, August 5, 2011

Day 75: Two Surprises

As I glared at the downstairs computer screen for the 3rd consecutive hour, I heard shouts from outside, but assumed it was just some high school kids talking loud and ignored it. After about an hour of continuous talking and intermittent music, I finally went out to investigate. I thought it was going to be some store having a grand opening or something. What a surprise! The whole street was decked out head-to-toe with street vendors selling fried everything, shaved ice, mochi and more! Squarish canvas flags hung off them and became illuminated by the dull street light passing through. Flanking the food stands were dozens of street games, from ball tosses to darts to eating contests. I was reminded of the "American Carnival" we orchestrate at each USA Summer Camp, and I thought that for all that we hype it up to be, this small street festival is no different. Elementary schoolers ran around from station to station, pulling at their mothers' yukata, demanding more coins to play the games. If they were lucky, they made away with a tiny orange goldfish in a plastic baggie of water as their winnings. Saruku-chan, the unofficial mascot of Nagasaki, was there as well, wobbling around in his inflated plastic suit and ceaselessly posing for pictures. I snapped a few myself, though I wish I had worked up the courage to take pictures of more of the children dressed in yukatas or jinbei. Most had small round fans sticking out from the bow in the back of their sash. I think it's wonderful that families still find multiple occasions per year to don these traditional garments, and it's not a serious or historical matter but still very much current. We wear regular clothes to work and traditional clothes in celebration. I must've only stayed a half-hour before I made the 10-step-long trek back to my front door. And that was the surprise Shindaiku-machi street matsuri.


After a while I began to get hungry, and after looking up a recipe on the internet, decided to make tortillas. They're surprisingly easy to make, and I had all the ingredients already: flour, milk, salt, baking powder, vegetable oil. I made a sticky mass of dough and was kneading it in my flour-y hands when I heard a shrill baby's shriek from the living room. Caught totally off-guard, I open the door to see Narumi-kun's face staring up at me. Even though it was near ten at night, Atsuko had come to work on one of her projects, bringing with her her whole family: husband Tsubasa, 2-year-old Kaname and 7-month-old Narumi, a.k.a. The Cutest Baby Who Ever Lived. Dad and kids were sitting on the floor watching a movie, while Atsuko worked on the computer. I must have been cooking for half an hour before I noticed! So that was surprise #2. And by the way, the tortillas were GLORIOUS, a little more like pitas than tortillas, but glorious nonetheless.


The streets were decked with red lanterns.


The street vendors sold lots of fried foods.


My favorite, the shaved ice stand.


Workers make wataame, literally cotton candy.



And just a block down, it's as lonely and desolate as ever.


Kids pose for pictures with Saruku-chan.


This is what my house looks like at night.

Thursday, August 4, 2011

Days 70-74: Merp.

(Sorry this entry has no pictures; there's been nothing picture-worthy lately.)

Since I've been back, I haven't been doing much.
But I LIKE IT.

I could be pressuring myself to do the last little bits of Nagasaki sight-seeing I haven't done yet, or rushing myself to buy souvenirs for my friends and family, but I'm not. I've just been doing work on the computer (regarding fall quarter school/work stuff and job applications for next year,) going to the grocery store, cooking and eating, napping, and internet-ing. But after two weeks of being on the road rushing around, it feels good to have a little lazy sloth time.

The exception was yesterday, where we went to Guy's restaurant in Huis Ten Bosch for the WHOLE DAY. And when I say the whole day I mean like 6am--9pm. An 180-person-big field trip of students from Okayama prefecture came to Rock & Roll Brats to eat hot dogs and practice ordering in English, and we were recruited to be order-takers. It was fun really, talking to the kids and pointing to signs: "Would you like a regular brat or a cheese brat? Which drink would you like, iced tea, Coca-Cola, or Hi-C?" A few were eager to order in English, pulling out their best "this one, please" but most were shy and just pointed at what they wanted. I like being at HTB because I get free food, I get social interaction, and I get into a theme park for free, but the two other interns don't like it as much. I don't know if I'll go there again, though, because Guy is hesitant to pay for my train fare up if I'm not going to be helping out that much.

Tonight I tried to make tempura. That was a fail. Of course, I followed the recipe I found exactly, but that recipe made batter which was way too thin and didn't coat the vegetables well at all. Then I used too much oil and had to take some out in order to get it to "crackle" right. Then the stove setting was too high at first, so the first couple rounds were burnt. But it was still good. :)

On Mon and Tues (Aug 8th and 9th) my friend Akira is coming to Nagasaki! She's coming to visit because August 9th is the anniversary date of the atom bombing of the city, so there is a memorial event going on around the Peace Park area. I'm excited to spend time with her and be in Nagasaki on the historic date. And it's something to spice up the days of monotony that we have with barely any work to do.

ALSO:
I had to make the very difficult decision not to take another trip to Kagawa/Tokushima to visit my friend Liz, meaning we won't be meeting up in Japan at all this time. It's such a weird feeling for me. Normally I prioritize money to travel over all else, and value it as more important than almost anything else money can buy. And technically I have the money in my account. But I didn't feel safe spending that money. I want to save that money just in case I don't get new students/classes to sub at home as quickly as I hope. I'm still beside myself that I didn't get to travel to Beppu, Kumamoto, and Kagoshima, as I had planned to, and now I have to add Kagawa and Tokushima to that list. Missed opportunity, experience unknown. But I have to tell myself that I can see them next year when I come back, and even if I didn't, it wouldn't be the end of the world. I don't have to see every nook and cranny the the earth has to offer. If there's a will, there's a way, so if I want to make it back there, I will somehow. Just like the places in France/Italy I was going to visit but didn't: Nice, Cannes, Marseilles, Monaco, and Cinque Terre. I will definitely be back for those someday. And Paris again.

The days here are long, and home is starting to sound real good. I can taste the Mexican food and feel the cool breezes already. :)

Sunday, July 31, 2011

Day 69: 港祭り

Officially TWO weeks left! My my my. How time flies.

I got back into Nagasaki around midnight (travel had taken ~12 hours) and CRASHED. Mai and Carley stayed the night in Fukuoka. That was July 30 and it's not August 1 and they're still not here. Where are you guys?! If they went on a Fukuoka adventure without me...I'm jealous. But I had to come home the 30th because my rail pass expired. Boo.

Anyhoo, last night I went to MINATO MATSURI (literally "port festival"), a summer celebration at the wharf/pier area. The WHOLE FREAKING TOWN rolled out for this event, busting out their Yukatas (summer kimonos), hard wooden flip-flops, lots of small screaming children, and many many fans. It felt as crowded as the Tokyo metro during rush hour. I hate it when the speed at which I comfortably walk is impeded. I secretly want to punch slow-walking people in the back of the head. But I digress.

I originally intended to go for hours, but I didn't have anyone to go with, so I just went for the fireworks show and left after. I would have loved to stay, get a beer, dance by the music stage, eat some shave ice, and just sit and enjoy the illuminated water and many passers-by, but without a companion, I felt no incentive to do so. That's something I've learned while being here: in true extrovert fashion, I need to be with people when I'm out doing fun things. Their companionship feeds and energizes me. Without them, I question whether it's worth it to go at all. (Hence my multiple previous entries about doing stuff alone.) So instead of really enjoying the festival (and spending more money,) I walked home. But it was still beautiful as it was. :)


Getting ready to watch the show: SO MANY PEOPLE!


HANABI!


Another angle


Everyone watching


The beautifully-illuminated wharf area


The little vendors selling yakisoba, takoyaki, kakigoori, etc.



TODAY'S CULTURE TIDBITS
1. Japan is the king of muzak. Hotel elevators, stores, restaurants, sometimes even flowing through the streets (such as the main street my house is by): there is always muzak.

2. Did you know? I don't have house keys for my house. I have a keypad with a secret code that I enter every time. Our house is so high-tech. I'm lucky; one less thing to lose.

Days 65-68: Summer Camp #3 (Yamanashi Prefecture, Mt. Fuji area)

For our final camp we rolled into the town of Kawaguchiko, host of the namesake lake in the foothills of Mt. Fuji. (Something I never thought I would get to do on this trip: SEE Mt. Fuji at all, let alone live in its foothills for three days!) The lake beautiful both day and night, and despite the cloudy weather which precluded us from getting a great view of Mt. Fuji, the area was one of the most beautiful I have ever stayed at. Camp was run out of a hotel, Ashiwada, while we stayed at a quaint little minshuku 15 minutes down the road (basically a big old house with multiple tatami rooms that a couple rents out to vacationers.)

This camp was a bit more of a challenge: an all-boys lower-level middle school. Let me say that again: ALL-BOYS. I used to think I was the only one who had trouble with boys, and while I do still think that I show unfair favoritism towards girls, I found out that almost all counselors have trouble with boys. At least these ones. Their immensely short attention span, lack of ability to pay attention, and propensity to run around and disregard orders given in English entirely made camp a struggle for ACs and we interns alike. I'm embarrassed to say, but by this third camp I was tired and burnt out, and instead of taking an active role in their learning as I had in the other camps, I took a backseat role and became an observer. Despite the challenges, I'm confident that ACs still made a positive difference in these boys' lives and improved their speaking and listening ability. Oh and the food was amazing: no more sashimi and fish on the platter every night, but instead a buffet-style east-west combination cuisine! Yay for buffets.


Yes, it is Fuji san.


Lake Kawaguchiko. Our hotel is that big white building on the right.


The lake by day.


Ajisai (hydrangea) reminds me of home in Nagasaki.


Check out this ominous-looking spiral cloud. I was half-seriously hoping it would develop into a tornado.


ACs and ETs. LOVE LOVE LOVE THIS GROUP! I had so much fun with them.


Campfire funz


The lake by dusk


Following the leader: hike hike hike!


Walking back to our minshuku, dead tired, at 10pm each night.


One-fourth of the students. There were four classes of boys. This was one of them. The total was something around 160 campers.


One of the 5 (!) trains we took to get back to Nagasaki: THE CRAZY FUJI TRAIN! WOOP WOOP ALL ABOARD THE CRAZY FUJI TRAIN

(For the record, our five trains were:
1. Kawaguchiko--Otsuki (the train pictured above, to get from the boonies into reality)
2. Otsuki--Shinjuku (had to go to Tokyo to get to Shinkansen)
3. Shinjuku--Shin-Osaka (first leg of shinkansen)
4. Shin-Osaka--Hakata (second leg of shinkansen)
5. Hakata--Nagasaki (local train to get into Nagasaki city.)



THE JELLY MIRACLE~
MIRACLE ON THE SHINKANSEN: old Japanese lady sits down next to me, we exchange head nods/smiles. We don't say a word for the duration of the shinkansen ride. When she gets off, she hands me a bag and slowly half-whispers to me: "Ja-pa-nese je-lly." I couldn't even. What in the? Why me? I just sat next to her on the shinkansen. I didn't even talk to her. And I happened to be starving and poor. I couldn't thank her enough. I kept saying "arigatou gozaimasu" over and over again. I can't believe this even happened. I finally have a Japan story. Thank you so much to Japanese old lady's kindness! They were freakin' DELICIOUS. Each one was a different flavor! My favorites were muscat and plum.

Additionally: On the second leg of my shinkansen trip, the other old lady who sat next to me said "sumimasen" when she sat down and "arigatou gozaimasu" when she got up. REALLY? Do you really need to thank me for granting you the extreme pleasure of sitting next to me? I can't even. That's like politeness to the unnecessary extreme.

And also: on the LAST leg of my trip home (Fukuoka--Nagasaki), I sat next to this super chatty talkative middle aged woman who engaged me in Japanese conversation the whole time. It was rough I tell ya, especially since I was tired and hungry. But I'm so grateful for it. I mean, what more can you hope for in a foreign country than for a stranger to talk to you on the train. (I mean that truly.)I got to practice my Japanese and practice pretending I knew what she was saying by nodding and going "un." I know you're not supposed to, but it's seriously ridiculous to stop and ask anytime you don't know anything. The conversation goes nowhere. Better just to get context clues and pretend you know everything.

And now I am back in Nagasaki. Home sweet home! I knew I was home because I got stared at again. Oh the welcoming stares of people who aren't used to gaijin walking about!

Friday, July 29, 2011

Days 61-64: Summer Camp #2 (Nagano Prefecture)

The same day we left Camp #1 we hopped a train (or a bunch of trains, rather) and ended up in the town of Chino in Nagano prefecture. We were taken to our hotel, which, in complete contrast to our cabin-style residence before, was a 4-star hotel! I couldn't believe it. Our room was unbelievably HUGE and had a western-style bedroom and tatami living/bed room! The best part: a tiny waterfall rolled off a ridge just outside the bedroom window, letting the sound of running water permeate the room. Not to mention the free candies they gave us every time they made the beds.

These kids were GREAT. This was a co-ed middle school group at an advanced level, so we skipped over the "recreational" activities (dance party, bonfire, carnival) in favor of more "academic" ones (word building, tongue twisters, group discussion.) In spite of the seriousness of the activities, camp was still entertaining, moving and fun. I'm so grateful to the team for letting us interns be involved with the kids and not just stolid observers. I made some real connections and hopefully contributed towards the campers' positive and fun image of English language learning.

At the end of camp, after "graduation," the campers all lined up and sang a chorale-style song that they had practiced for us. I started sobbing. I made a fist and touched it hard to the bridge of my nose, eyes clenched shut, the entire time, trying to control my tears. Their choral music reminded me of why I want to do what I want to do. I don't know why it moves me so much, but it does. I am astonished that their entire 9th grade class sings. They are ALL part of the choir. And it didn't sound half bad. They even had a student conductor who I got to talk to a little bit at the end. I told her that I studied conducting back in the states, and to not give up on conducting/music. She was really appreciative. I also signed a bunch of autographs and took a bunch of pictures. Even the boys were crying. This was a very emotional camp. That's the best kind.


Mike welcoming the campers to camp.


An epic dragonfly alighted on the bridge outside.


The river that flowed literally all around the grounds. It was beautiful; it was like the hotel was integrated with the nature all around it.


Some of the finery in our hotel room.


Our beautiful tatami room! I am going to miss these when I come back home.


The hotel lobby meant two things: staff meetings and INTERNET! Internet until I could no longer keep my eyes open every night. Hehe.


After camp, on the train going back to Tokyo: a cute little hamlet. I love them.




The town of Kiyosato. It was BEAUTIFUL and strangely reminded me of Los Gatos.


The beautiful town sign. THAT is my second-favorite color. So gorgeous. Kiyosato means "pure village." Kiyo (清) is one of my very favorite kanji. It is basically the kanji for blue (青) combined with the radical for water (シ)and it means "pure." If I was gonna give my daughter a Japanese name, I would consider naming her that.



After this camp ended, we spent a night in Tokyo before moving on to Camp #3. To make the most of my time, I tried to think of something cool to do, and ended up taking the train around, getting off at a few stops and walking around. As I walked, I thought to myself: Can I see myself living here for a year? I walked around a lot and I thought about it long and hard. The answer is yes. I wasn't sure, but now I think I would love to live in Tokyo for a year. As I walked, I pretended like I knew the way. I listened to my headphones. I barely whipped out my camera (except to take the photo above, near Gotanba station, for my friend Remy.) I tried to imagine myself living there. Even though my little excursion was sort of a waste because I spent the majority of my time on the viewless train, it was a success in that I sort of figured out my comfort level with living in the city. I feel strangely safe in Tokyo. Though it's the big city, I definitely don't feel the fear of robbery, and fear of my body, that I felt in Paris.



TODAY'S CULTURE TIDBIT

Bathing culture in Japan.
I can't take pics inside the baths, of course, but ever since I embarked on this summer-camp journey, I've been bathing with the other female counselors. This was the first time I had ever done so. The first time I was shy, but I seriously got over it it 5 minutes and couldn't believe I was so apprehensive before. We're all women. We all have bodies, and my body is not grotesque; rather, we're all beautiful. Plus no one gives a shit and everyone is super comfortable with it so it makes me comfortable with it too. Every facility we have been to has had a wonderful bath. There is a "shower area" where you shower (because you DARE not enter the bath dirty, seriously) and then a hot-tub-ish big BATH. The shower area has lots and lots of little gooseneck showerheads hanging down from the walls, a stool to sit on, and usually some kind of shampoo/shower gel/soap. The bath is just a 2-or-3-foot-deep-ish area of hot water. Like a hot tub, but no chlorine and less fizzy. Some have bubbles, some don't. Some are outside, some inside. Some are made of marble, some wooden, some tile. I personally prefer the wooden ones. They feel really natural and comfortable. Taking a nice soak in what is essentially a hot tub after every nightly shower feels really good. I feel like the Japanese work so hard, day in and day out (and really they do) that at night, indulging in a bath is the perfect release. It's such a normal thing: take a shower, then take a bath. You can even go together with your friends or family. I like it, and I wish Americans were less uptight about the whole nakedness-together thing now.