Sunday, July 31, 2011

Day 69: 港祭り

Officially TWO weeks left! My my my. How time flies.

I got back into Nagasaki around midnight (travel had taken ~12 hours) and CRASHED. Mai and Carley stayed the night in Fukuoka. That was July 30 and it's not August 1 and they're still not here. Where are you guys?! If they went on a Fukuoka adventure without me...I'm jealous. But I had to come home the 30th because my rail pass expired. Boo.

Anyhoo, last night I went to MINATO MATSURI (literally "port festival"), a summer celebration at the wharf/pier area. The WHOLE FREAKING TOWN rolled out for this event, busting out their Yukatas (summer kimonos), hard wooden flip-flops, lots of small screaming children, and many many fans. It felt as crowded as the Tokyo metro during rush hour. I hate it when the speed at which I comfortably walk is impeded. I secretly want to punch slow-walking people in the back of the head. But I digress.

I originally intended to go for hours, but I didn't have anyone to go with, so I just went for the fireworks show and left after. I would have loved to stay, get a beer, dance by the music stage, eat some shave ice, and just sit and enjoy the illuminated water and many passers-by, but without a companion, I felt no incentive to do so. That's something I've learned while being here: in true extrovert fashion, I need to be with people when I'm out doing fun things. Their companionship feeds and energizes me. Without them, I question whether it's worth it to go at all. (Hence my multiple previous entries about doing stuff alone.) So instead of really enjoying the festival (and spending more money,) I walked home. But it was still beautiful as it was. :)


Getting ready to watch the show: SO MANY PEOPLE!


HANABI!


Another angle


Everyone watching


The beautifully-illuminated wharf area


The little vendors selling yakisoba, takoyaki, kakigoori, etc.



TODAY'S CULTURE TIDBITS
1. Japan is the king of muzak. Hotel elevators, stores, restaurants, sometimes even flowing through the streets (such as the main street my house is by): there is always muzak.

2. Did you know? I don't have house keys for my house. I have a keypad with a secret code that I enter every time. Our house is so high-tech. I'm lucky; one less thing to lose.

Days 65-68: Summer Camp #3 (Yamanashi Prefecture, Mt. Fuji area)

For our final camp we rolled into the town of Kawaguchiko, host of the namesake lake in the foothills of Mt. Fuji. (Something I never thought I would get to do on this trip: SEE Mt. Fuji at all, let alone live in its foothills for three days!) The lake beautiful both day and night, and despite the cloudy weather which precluded us from getting a great view of Mt. Fuji, the area was one of the most beautiful I have ever stayed at. Camp was run out of a hotel, Ashiwada, while we stayed at a quaint little minshuku 15 minutes down the road (basically a big old house with multiple tatami rooms that a couple rents out to vacationers.)

This camp was a bit more of a challenge: an all-boys lower-level middle school. Let me say that again: ALL-BOYS. I used to think I was the only one who had trouble with boys, and while I do still think that I show unfair favoritism towards girls, I found out that almost all counselors have trouble with boys. At least these ones. Their immensely short attention span, lack of ability to pay attention, and propensity to run around and disregard orders given in English entirely made camp a struggle for ACs and we interns alike. I'm embarrassed to say, but by this third camp I was tired and burnt out, and instead of taking an active role in their learning as I had in the other camps, I took a backseat role and became an observer. Despite the challenges, I'm confident that ACs still made a positive difference in these boys' lives and improved their speaking and listening ability. Oh and the food was amazing: no more sashimi and fish on the platter every night, but instead a buffet-style east-west combination cuisine! Yay for buffets.


Yes, it is Fuji san.


Lake Kawaguchiko. Our hotel is that big white building on the right.


The lake by day.


Ajisai (hydrangea) reminds me of home in Nagasaki.


Check out this ominous-looking spiral cloud. I was half-seriously hoping it would develop into a tornado.


ACs and ETs. LOVE LOVE LOVE THIS GROUP! I had so much fun with them.


Campfire funz


The lake by dusk


Following the leader: hike hike hike!


Walking back to our minshuku, dead tired, at 10pm each night.


One-fourth of the students. There were four classes of boys. This was one of them. The total was something around 160 campers.


One of the 5 (!) trains we took to get back to Nagasaki: THE CRAZY FUJI TRAIN! WOOP WOOP ALL ABOARD THE CRAZY FUJI TRAIN

(For the record, our five trains were:
1. Kawaguchiko--Otsuki (the train pictured above, to get from the boonies into reality)
2. Otsuki--Shinjuku (had to go to Tokyo to get to Shinkansen)
3. Shinjuku--Shin-Osaka (first leg of shinkansen)
4. Shin-Osaka--Hakata (second leg of shinkansen)
5. Hakata--Nagasaki (local train to get into Nagasaki city.)



THE JELLY MIRACLE~
MIRACLE ON THE SHINKANSEN: old Japanese lady sits down next to me, we exchange head nods/smiles. We don't say a word for the duration of the shinkansen ride. When she gets off, she hands me a bag and slowly half-whispers to me: "Ja-pa-nese je-lly." I couldn't even. What in the? Why me? I just sat next to her on the shinkansen. I didn't even talk to her. And I happened to be starving and poor. I couldn't thank her enough. I kept saying "arigatou gozaimasu" over and over again. I can't believe this even happened. I finally have a Japan story. Thank you so much to Japanese old lady's kindness! They were freakin' DELICIOUS. Each one was a different flavor! My favorites were muscat and plum.

Additionally: On the second leg of my shinkansen trip, the other old lady who sat next to me said "sumimasen" when she sat down and "arigatou gozaimasu" when she got up. REALLY? Do you really need to thank me for granting you the extreme pleasure of sitting next to me? I can't even. That's like politeness to the unnecessary extreme.

And also: on the LAST leg of my trip home (Fukuoka--Nagasaki), I sat next to this super chatty talkative middle aged woman who engaged me in Japanese conversation the whole time. It was rough I tell ya, especially since I was tired and hungry. But I'm so grateful for it. I mean, what more can you hope for in a foreign country than for a stranger to talk to you on the train. (I mean that truly.)I got to practice my Japanese and practice pretending I knew what she was saying by nodding and going "un." I know you're not supposed to, but it's seriously ridiculous to stop and ask anytime you don't know anything. The conversation goes nowhere. Better just to get context clues and pretend you know everything.

And now I am back in Nagasaki. Home sweet home! I knew I was home because I got stared at again. Oh the welcoming stares of people who aren't used to gaijin walking about!

Friday, July 29, 2011

Days 61-64: Summer Camp #2 (Nagano Prefecture)

The same day we left Camp #1 we hopped a train (or a bunch of trains, rather) and ended up in the town of Chino in Nagano prefecture. We were taken to our hotel, which, in complete contrast to our cabin-style residence before, was a 4-star hotel! I couldn't believe it. Our room was unbelievably HUGE and had a western-style bedroom and tatami living/bed room! The best part: a tiny waterfall rolled off a ridge just outside the bedroom window, letting the sound of running water permeate the room. Not to mention the free candies they gave us every time they made the beds.

These kids were GREAT. This was a co-ed middle school group at an advanced level, so we skipped over the "recreational" activities (dance party, bonfire, carnival) in favor of more "academic" ones (word building, tongue twisters, group discussion.) In spite of the seriousness of the activities, camp was still entertaining, moving and fun. I'm so grateful to the team for letting us interns be involved with the kids and not just stolid observers. I made some real connections and hopefully contributed towards the campers' positive and fun image of English language learning.

At the end of camp, after "graduation," the campers all lined up and sang a chorale-style song that they had practiced for us. I started sobbing. I made a fist and touched it hard to the bridge of my nose, eyes clenched shut, the entire time, trying to control my tears. Their choral music reminded me of why I want to do what I want to do. I don't know why it moves me so much, but it does. I am astonished that their entire 9th grade class sings. They are ALL part of the choir. And it didn't sound half bad. They even had a student conductor who I got to talk to a little bit at the end. I told her that I studied conducting back in the states, and to not give up on conducting/music. She was really appreciative. I also signed a bunch of autographs and took a bunch of pictures. Even the boys were crying. This was a very emotional camp. That's the best kind.


Mike welcoming the campers to camp.


An epic dragonfly alighted on the bridge outside.


The river that flowed literally all around the grounds. It was beautiful; it was like the hotel was integrated with the nature all around it.


Some of the finery in our hotel room.


Our beautiful tatami room! I am going to miss these when I come back home.


The hotel lobby meant two things: staff meetings and INTERNET! Internet until I could no longer keep my eyes open every night. Hehe.


After camp, on the train going back to Tokyo: a cute little hamlet. I love them.




The town of Kiyosato. It was BEAUTIFUL and strangely reminded me of Los Gatos.


The beautiful town sign. THAT is my second-favorite color. So gorgeous. Kiyosato means "pure village." Kiyo (清) is one of my very favorite kanji. It is basically the kanji for blue (青) combined with the radical for water (シ)and it means "pure." If I was gonna give my daughter a Japanese name, I would consider naming her that.



After this camp ended, we spent a night in Tokyo before moving on to Camp #3. To make the most of my time, I tried to think of something cool to do, and ended up taking the train around, getting off at a few stops and walking around. As I walked, I thought to myself: Can I see myself living here for a year? I walked around a lot and I thought about it long and hard. The answer is yes. I wasn't sure, but now I think I would love to live in Tokyo for a year. As I walked, I pretended like I knew the way. I listened to my headphones. I barely whipped out my camera (except to take the photo above, near Gotanba station, for my friend Remy.) I tried to imagine myself living there. Even though my little excursion was sort of a waste because I spent the majority of my time on the viewless train, it was a success in that I sort of figured out my comfort level with living in the city. I feel strangely safe in Tokyo. Though it's the big city, I definitely don't feel the fear of robbery, and fear of my body, that I felt in Paris.



TODAY'S CULTURE TIDBIT

Bathing culture in Japan.
I can't take pics inside the baths, of course, but ever since I embarked on this summer-camp journey, I've been bathing with the other female counselors. This was the first time I had ever done so. The first time I was shy, but I seriously got over it it 5 minutes and couldn't believe I was so apprehensive before. We're all women. We all have bodies, and my body is not grotesque; rather, we're all beautiful. Plus no one gives a shit and everyone is super comfortable with it so it makes me comfortable with it too. Every facility we have been to has had a wonderful bath. There is a "shower area" where you shower (because you DARE not enter the bath dirty, seriously) and then a hot-tub-ish big BATH. The shower area has lots and lots of little gooseneck showerheads hanging down from the walls, a stool to sit on, and usually some kind of shampoo/shower gel/soap. The bath is just a 2-or-3-foot-deep-ish area of hot water. Like a hot tub, but no chlorine and less fizzy. Some have bubbles, some don't. Some are outside, some inside. Some are made of marble, some wooden, some tile. I personally prefer the wooden ones. They feel really natural and comfortable. Taking a nice soak in what is essentially a hot tub after every nightly shower feels really good. I feel like the Japanese work so hard, day in and day out (and really they do) that at night, indulging in a bath is the perfect release. It's such a normal thing: take a shower, then take a bath. You can even go together with your friends or family. I like it, and I wish Americans were less uptight about the whole nakedness-together thing now.

Days 57-60: Summer Camp #1 (Yamanashi Prefecture, Hatsugatake)

Our first camp! I had no idea what to expect. We were housed in a facility called, if I remember correctly, Shounen Shizen no Ie (literally, nature house for youth) in the Hatsugadake (8 peaks) area of Yamanashi Prefecture, which is just West of Tokyo but is a totally different world. We were in the mountains, and it was actually cold, making me regret bringing nothing warmer than shorts and a T-shirt. But the campers warmed our hearts. (Aw, shucks.) No but really. They were great. Meeting the ACs (American Counselors) was so great. Watching the kids learn and have fun was great. I'm so glad I got to be a part of such a positive experience.


The signpost to our facility. After getting dropped off, we followed a narrow unpaved path through the woods until we reached a small clearing. Our place was literally in the middle of the woods.


The roaring campfire on night #2. The campers LOVED making s'mores (which were unfortunately made with millet cookies instead of graham crackers and a dab of chocolate sauce instead of chocolate bars--but real, authentic, campfire-warmed marshmallows!)


Practicing skits in the gym.


The whale I drew on "tattoo lady" Jonelle's arm at the American Carnival.


A few of my favorite girls. This particular group was a "dance group" that entertained us during recreation by performing the dances to all their favorite K-Pop and J-pop songs (many of which I know and love from home.) The girls on the far right and far left are REALLY good (like Kaba Modern good, I'm serious) and I told them at the end of camp to keep pursuing dance in high school because they have a lot of talent!


All of the ACs and me! They were SUCH fun and I'm only sad I could only spend 3 days with them before moving onto the next camp. After weeks of relative isolation, I was so happy to have some kind of social fulfillment.

Sunday, July 24, 2011

Day 56: Tokyo

TOKYO WAS BEAUTIFUL!

I found out communicating without a cell phone is really hard when all your friends have cell phones and don't use Facebook very much. And thus was my problem trying to figure who, when and how to meet up in Tokyo. After much planning and stressing, I thought I had it figured out. I arrived in Tokyo station and went the place where Saya was supposed to meet me up. 10 minutes of waiting. 15. 20. Nothing. Finally I used a payphone to call her. "Rebe-chan...did you check Facebook? I have an assignment so I can't come...I'm so sorry." I was all alone in Tokyo. Fat tears welled up in my eyes, I turned red, and paced back and forth. I didn't know what to do. Was I going to wander the city alone all day? I called her two times again from the payphone, and she agreed to pick me up...but in an hour. So I took another subway train to the Harajuku station and waited and waited and waited and was surprised by Yuzuki who came to see me before Saya did, and then we put my stuff in a coin locker and finally Saya arrived. :) And I still had 6 hours left to see Tokyo.

After the morning's mishap, the rest of the day was amazing, despite the on-and-off rain. Saya, Yuzuki and I walked around Takeshita St. and Harajuku and then ate lunch at Italian Tomato Cafe Jr. Then Yuzuki had to leave and Saya and I went to Meiji Jingu, Yoyogi Park, Tokyo Tower, Roppongi, and Azabujuban, and Shibuya. It was so fun, and a lot to do in a day, especially mostly on foot! <3 In the evening, we went to Hachiko at Shibuya station where Saya left me and I met up with all of my Komozawa friends. I expected 3 or 4 on them to come see me, but over 10 of them showed up just to see me! I WAS SO SURPRISED! I love Japanese hospitality and generosity. I'm SO thankful to Nana for organizing us all to meet. We went to a super fancy izakaya on the 14th floor of a building across from Shibuya 1O9. I'd never seen such a view. So much good food! And I had already eaten dinner too with Saya! I was so glad to talk to everyone and catch up. They've all graduated and gotten jobs and entered into the "adult" phase of Japanese society. They spoke to me all only in Japanese and I only spoke Japanese, so it was kinda hard for me to communicate, but I enjoyed the challenge. I'm just so glad we got to reunite after three years. I never ever thought it would happen, so it warms my heart that it did. People make things happen. <3

At night I had to find my way from Shibuya to the Sakura hostel in Asakusa where I was staying for the night with Carley and Mai. I made it to Asakusa station all right, but of course I got lost once I stepped foot out of the station, even with my map. I asked one policeman who didn't know anything and gave me incorrect directions before asking another one who was able to produce another map and gave me slow, clear directions in Japanese. I was DEAD tired and didn't even feel like taking my camera out to take pictures, even though there were some beautiful night shots. When I got to the hostel I didn't even brush my teeth; I immediately crashed onto my bed and sunk into a deep sleep.











Days 54-55: Kansai Adventure

On July 17, I traveled from Nagasaki to Hakata to Shin-Osaka to Takatsuki and back to Osaka, and thus started my first visit to the Kansai region of Japan. It's such a wonderful coincidence that my friend Alex and I are in Japan at the same time, so we could visit each other, I could stay with him, and he could show me around his area. This trip took a lot of stress and planning and I'm super glad it worked out the way it did.

I was only able to take this trip due to good fortune, good timing, and the graciousness of my boss. Our travel for work is July 20-30, but a rail pass is good for 14 days, so I left on the 17th instead and used those extra 3 days to visit. Unlimited free train and shinkansen travel, yes!

On a VERY VERY hot and humid day in Kyoto, Alex and his friend Shane showed me around the main parts of the city. I had the good luck to be visiting on the same day as a major festival, Gion Matsuri. Unfortunately, that meant that all the major thoroughfares and shrines were PACKED to the max with visitors and spectators, and weren't able to get much of a view. So we spent time wading in the river that runs through town, walking around smaller shrines, and Karaoke-ing it up at Jan-Kara. Karaoke with unlimited drinks (both alcoholic and not) for around $5!

At night we went to a part of Osaka called Nanba (THE FAMOUS PART!!!) Where I was able to see all the famous sights I wanted to see like: the giant crab and the Glico man. Also we ate YOGURTLAND which excited me greatly, because I miss it from home and it's still crazy to me that it exists in Japan. It feels like such an Irvine thing. I remember when there were only two locations, Fullerton and Irvine, then it expanded to NorCal and now it's in Japan! What the!

The next day I met up with my friend Yuki (my conversation partner from Doshisha '09!) In Kyoto, we went to two of the greatest places in Japan and in the world: The Fushimi Inari shine and the Kiyomizu-dera temple! Fushimi Inari is AMAZING for its row upon row of bright orange torii. They stack upon each other, creating a glowy tunnel with shafts of light shooting in. Unfortunately it was a rainy day, so the light effect didn't quite work, but it was amazing nonetheless. Kiyomizu boasts a gorgeous panoramic view of Kyoto and the surrounding hillside, plus a 'holy water' waterfall that Yuki and I were able to drink out of and wash our hands in. It was beautiful, serene, and a great opportunity to catch up.

In the evening, Yuki and I took advantage of the pleasures of city life in Osaka: karaoke, food and purikura! After an hour of cheap Karaoke (we both love singing!) we ate traditional Japanese udon and shave ice. THE SHAVE ICE IS WONDERFUL. A bed of mochi and anko (red bean paste) with soft fluffy shave ice on top, topped with matcha syrup and accompanied by hot tea. We ended our night by taking purikura (which, if you don't know, is like a photobooth except you can edit the pics by digitally drawing on them, your skin always looks perfect because of the lighting, and they digitally enlarge your eyes.) It's fun and silly. :)

Even though my Kansai experience was so short I am beyond elated that I got to experience these two amazing cities and I'm super excited to come back and delve more into their beauty when I come to Japan next time. :)